Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

RC Tech, and forums in general, can suck it.

Friday, July 26th, 2013

So the title of this post pretty much sums it up, but in case you don’t find me clear, RC TECH can suck a bag of dicks.

It’s really not the forum’s fault.  The software didn’t make itself suck, it’s the user content.  We’ve all seen it, every forum regardless of the hobby has been turned into nothing but a cesspool of nothing.   Random questions that can often be answered by owners manuals, or cursory Google searching out number the good information to such an extent  that it’s impossible to have any honest informative discourse anymore.

It does not help that we have power tripping moderators that will take personal vendettas against users, even if they are within the forums ‘guidelines’ they will set their own and start banning when a persons view doesn’t meet their own.   This has never actually happened to me, I just see it over and over.  It’s not long before we have users banned who simply run the wrong brands.  It’s bullshit.
How do you learn little turtle?  It’s actually pretty easy, you just need to come out of your shell, open your eyes, and talk to other people at the track.

Seattle RC Racers – CC Setup Stock 1/12.

Thursday, November 22nd, 2012

This is my setup for the community center track, while not track record it has produced the fastest laps in the field.

Chassis: Speedmerchant Rev7

[Front End]
Tire Diameter: 40mm, black compound.
Front end width: 168mm
Front toe: .5 degree toe-in.
Front Camber: 1 degree.
Front Caster: 2 degree.
Front Spring: .022″ (hard)
Front Dampner: Thick (spooge on king pin.)
Ackerman: full foward
Front end: Old Skool.

[Read End]
Tire Diameter: 41mm, yellow compound.
Rear width: 172mm.
Side spring: .020″ Side dampener: light spooge.
Side spring preload: Just touching chassis + 1 full turn in.

[Center]
Shock: Hotbodies 1/12. AE Blue spring. 538cst oil, 2 hole piston.
Location: full forward pod plate, middle hole of center brace.

Chassis note: left/right weight is within 1 gram of balance.  Battery forward (plugs to the rear.)
Ride height: 3.5mm front/rear.

Roll out: 93.21mm (76 spur, 55 pinion.) (that’s 3.67″ to you eh-mericans.)
Motor: D3.5, high rpm rotor, +20 degrees of timing.

Tuning tip: measure in thousandths.

Tuesday, November 29th, 2011

1/12 tuning is done in smaller measurements than you may be used to.  0.25mm changes have effect; from ride height to ball stud locations if you raise or lower something just .25mm (.010″) you can be making a drastic change.

One thing to experiment is with your ride height.  Set a car up square, or 3.5mm across the entire chassis from front to rear.  If you lower the front just .25mm you’ll notice a change in steering and how the car rotates.  I see sometimes new racers not paying as close attention and wondering why their car is so odd driving when it has 3.5mm of ride in the front and 4.2mm in the rear, or worse; vice versa!

 

Evolution of a pitwhore.

Tuesday, November 29th, 2011

Evolution and refinement is a slow process.  Sometimes taking millions of year.  What I present to you is evolution of a pitwhore in high speed.

What I’m showing you here is a leap forward for our friend Kyle.  Just a few months ago you would have thought you were watching an episode of hoarders, now its more just an episode of Maury.  We’re going to stalk his progress and record it here and see how long it takes for him to notice.

I promise you’ll be impressed by his refinement and how he evolves into a premium pitwhore.

 

:)

 

Speedmerchant Rev 7 build

Friday, September 30th, 2011

This weekend I finally started assembling my Speedmerchant Rev 7, I’ll start posting pictures as this build progresses.  This car uses an inline (off set) battery configuration, keeping the weight down the centerline increases corner speed and makes the car more effecient.

When debuted at our club inline cars immediately put a lap (and more) on the traditional layout cars running.

The first thing I do with any carbon chassis is to sand and seal the edge of the carbon fiber.  This gives the edge a finished look, adding to the overall clean look of the car.  It also protects the edge from chipping, and to a point helps the car scrub less speed when it makes lateral contact with the carpet.

 

Additional: 11/2011

Car is finished and racing well.  I ran this car at the Timezone Grand Prix in November of 2011, in 17.5 stock it pretty much dominated the field.  Set an early TQ pace and crushed in the first two A-Mains.  It had ridiculous corner speed.

A race report and setup for this car can be found here:

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/speedmerchant/setup/Rev7/Rev7_WesBriscoe_TimeZoneGP2011/index.html

You should race 12scale.

Friday, April 15th, 2011

1/12 Racing is the purest and best form of carpet racing.

Simple, inexpensive, fast, and fun.

Touring car racing is the norm, these large lumbering four wheel drive cadillacs have all but driven the casual racer from on road racing.  Hundreds of adjustments, massive front to rear bias, rubber tires, and terrible looks to just baffle and drive away someone who is trying to get into racing.  Not to mention the basic cost, it’s no wonder turn out is low across the country.  It’s the cars themselves that are killing racing.

The 12scale is often overlooked as being a lot of voodoo.  It’s really not.  It comes down to two things; making sure the chassis is straight and untweaked, and having the right tire.  These are just one of the millions of things you have to deal with on a touring car, only simplified.

With a 1/12 car you  need to build it straight, make sure you are running the tires appropriate for the track, and make sure you maintain the tire.  You may not have the fastest car but you’ll have a stable driving platform that is suitable for learning how to drive and get faster.   Often times spring adjustment, camber, or rear shock adjustment is done once and not touched all season.

As I write this the most expensive 1/12 car is $250.  I can find similar cars used at the moment for $75-100.  Some with smoking deals, like servo or a battery.  Even if purchased new, you can find some inexpensive cars like the CRC for as low as $150….electronics are cheaper, motor and esc is the same, but added all up it is considerable savings.

2006 1/12 Worlds

The R/C Trim Hookup.

Wednesday, March 30th, 2011

This was my pit and scheme for the the 2011 ROAR Carpet Nationals.  I had to represent hard, and come in style.  What really set this scheme off is the fat R/C  Trim Vinyl on my pit board.  Pete was able to print a piece of vinyl that was exactly the same size as my HUDY 1/8 pit board, down to the millimeter.

The best part of this vinyl is it cleans up way easier than original surface, so with a quick wipe of motor spray the work area is clean and bright again.

Also tools slide along it really well, ride height adjusters, camber gauges, all have a much more positive feel on the surface of the board.

What you cannot see in the photo is the hash marks on the board making width changes to the car very easy.

Contact www.rc-trim.com for more information.