Hangar 30 R/C Pan Car Clinic Notes: Chassis Setup Tips.

Originally written by Brian Bodine for the H30 Pan Car Tuning Clinic..

Tires:

are the most important part of tuning. Try to use the most aggressive front tire toachieve the fastest lap times. You may find that tuning the edges of the front tires with CA necessary while running Jack the Gripper. The goal is to make the car run for 8 minutes first, then go fast. Not go fast for 5 minutes and then be undriveable at the end. Paragon makes tire choices very easy, you either need more or less traction. All the other traction compounds require a delicate balance of traction with chassis set up.Tried and trued tire combos are as follows:Stock: Yellow/Black, Yellow/Lilac, Yellow/2xPink, Yellow/MagentaSuper Stock/Mod: Pink/Lilac, Pink/2xPink, Pink/Magenta

Hanger 30:

13.5 no-boost is really not all that fast, more like stock speed. Therefore stock type tires should yield the best laps over the course of 8 minutes. Currently yellow/black is the fast combo.  Once the floor cools, look for pink/magenta or magenta/magenta combo to maintain consistent traction through out the run. The “sign” you will be looking for is the car getting loose around the 6 minute mark.

Front ends:

Start with 1/2 degree toe out per side.  Use more toe out if you need the car to turn in more off power, less if you need less turn in.  Caster is the king pin angle fore and aft. Less caster on the king pin will turn in more off power at corner entry, but have less steering power on.  More caster on the king pin will turn in less off power, but will have more steering through the corner and on power. A word of caution, too much caster can cause traction roll.  Set the camber at -1/2 degrees per side.  If you need more steering, increase to camber. If traction roll is a problem, reduce camber. Choose the reactive castor block based on steering characteristics you desire.  10 is more aggressive while 0 is the least aggressive. Test between 10 & 5 and monitor your lap times. .020” have been the best all around spring.  .018” can steer in more initially and exit the corner with more steering, but look for the car to square the apex scrubbing corner speed or an unpredictable corner exit. .022” rarely gets used as they lack the corner exit steering needed. The CRC front end will give additional advantages with camber gain options. Start with the .50mm spring. The stock upper arm position will have the most camber gain with the pin at the short & low upper location. Adding the carbon H brace will elevate the upper pin and reduce some steering by reducing the camber gain. By going to the long upper arm, the camber gain will be reduced even further. This last option should prove beneficial when the track surface turns to “fly paper”. King pin dampening can be used or ignored.  15K to 30K weight silicone diff fluids work very well. Dampening can increase the steering at initial input.

Hanger 30:

The Hanger has good traction, but never high enough that you will need to make special high traction modifications to your front end.  Most stock front ends should work just fine.  Start with 10 degree reactive blocks, one caster shim infront – two in back or about 6 degrees of caster, -1/2 camber, .020” or .50mm springs, no upper braces, stock track width, no spring preload (or CRC: .404”).
Weight Bias: I have found that I prefer a 41/59% bias when racing on Jack the Gripper. any thing less (39/61%), I have found the front tires to scrub excessively eventually over heating which causes the car to pivot on the nose late in the run. Shift the batteries fore& aft for steering and tire balance.  Moving the batteries forward will turn in slightly lesswhile improving the mid and exit steering.  Moving the batteries to the rear will increase off power steering but reduce mid and exit steering. To figure out weight bias, locate a spacer the same height as the weight scale so that they will be level.  Weigh the entire car ready to run, then weigh the rear tires on the scale with the front tires on the spacer. Divide the weight of the rear into the total weight of the car. You will be looking for 0.59 as a result or 59%. (This is old information, but still interesting)Hanger 30: Now that I race with CRC, I do not pay attention to weight bias that much any more. Battery is either back or forward based on the kind of steering needed in the 12th scale. Although weigh bias is all the buzz in wgt right now. Getting the right mix of corner speed handling using weight distribution is driving the designs to a more50/50 bias.

Center Dampening:

30wt oil in the center shock is a good starting point.  If the car reacts too quick off power, reduce to 25 or 20wt. If the car needs more initial steering off power while running 20wt, go up in weight.  20wt may work better on a bumpy track then 30wt. Lighter springs are more forgiving off power and over any bumps.  Heaviersprings will react faster off power, some say has more steering on throttle and should be used on smoother tracks. Heavier tube lube will keep a car flatter at corner entry initiating quicker. It may also make the car square off the corner entry when the gripgets beyond med-high. Going lighter will reduce steering initiation and maybe preferred on higher grip.

Hanger 30: CRC = 30wt in the center shock, 30k in the tubes. Asc = 50-60wt in the center shock, 80 in the cross shock.
Shock Angle/Pod Droop: Raising or lowering the nose of the center shock will affect the on power steering. Raising the nose will increase on power steering. This is done by adding up to 3mm of shims to the antenna mount.  Lowering the nose of the shock will reduce steering on power. Changing shock angle will change pod droop on some cars. Pod droop is controlled by shock length.  Pod droop effects on power steering.  0 is more on power steering while -2 is less. Try various combinations during testing. These can be valuable subtle adjustments once qualifying starts. Set the car up with no shims under the nose ball stud and with -1mm pod droop. (This information contradicts whatʼs in the CRC manual and was created during t-bar testing a few years ago…. your results may very!)

I have been setting the CRC pod at -2mm and went racing.  I have not spent much time changing the elevation of the shock as these settings are subtle butare worth keeping in the back of your mind.

Side Springs:

Softer side springs will give the car more rear grip and a smoother steering feel around center. Stiffer side springs make the car more aggressive offcenter and in low bite, could make the car oversteer. You can either preload the springs or set them for float. More preload will free up the rear end.  Float will make more rear grip and make the steering less reactive.Hanger 30: For 12th scale, the base side spring is white just touching. Although we have found that the blue (softer then white) actually lets the car rotate more.  In WGT reds work very well.  I have not used preload much in 12th scale, but itʼs very common in wgt. Just touching in 12th, 2 to 4 turns preload in wgt.Ride Height: Ride height needs to be measured race ready on a set up board.  Higherride height can be used on slick or bumpy surfaces which will allow more weighttransfer.  Lower ride height should be used on high bite which will allow quicker direction change.  Should use about 3mm for carpet, 4+mm on asphalt.  Raking the chassis canincrease off power steering (about a 1/2mm higher in the rear).

 

 

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